Gypsum Pass
Gypsum Pass is a topographic anomaly on the Colorado
Plateau. Drainages in this area already existed before the
enormous geological uplift in this area occurred.
Established rivers carved valleys into canyons through the
soft rock as the uplift occurred. As the drainages were
modified, some canyons captured other rivers, leaving
these canyons high and dry.
In this environment it is not surprising that Gypsum Pass,
a true water divide, is anything but a topographic high
point. Instead it is an interesting example of Colorado
Plateau peculiarities. The pass is often marked as Gypsum
Gap. This includes the deLorme Gazetteer, older highway
maps published by the Colorado tourist board and topo
maps. It is however a true water divide and the Colorado
Tourist Board's 2005 map identifies it as Gypsum Pass.
Helmuth's book "Passes of Colorado" identifies
the pass as a water divide between Disappointment Creek
and Gypsum Creek, but retains its name as "Gypsum
Gap". Traffic along the entire route is sparse.

click on profile for more detail
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1.(5470ft,mile00) START-WEST: West:
Slick Rock Bridge; Co141 crosses the Dolores River
2.(5940ft,mile11) One of several dirt road roads
joining from Disappointment Valley to the right.
Lone Cone SWA summit(u) profile connects here.
3.(6125ft,mile12) Gypsum Pass
4.(6610ft,mile13) TOP: high point, dirt road leaves
towards left
5.(6520ft,mile23) START-END ALTERNATE EAST:
settlement of Basin is to the right.
6.(5630ft,mile36) START-END EAST: junction with
Co145
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Approaches
From South. A few initial curves extricate the road
through an easy exit from Dolores Canyon. Then the road rolls
over shallow dessert hills in a straight line towards a low
hogback ridge. A slight gain in elevation can be
observed. But the only evidence is the improving view of the
La Sal Mountains in Utah, which slowly creep above the valley
horizon. The triangular peak to the right of the road is not
some obscure dessert butte in Disappointment Valley but Lone
Cone Peak, western sentinel of the San Juan Mountains. After
reaching the crest of the low hogback ridge, which is Gypsum
Pass, the road continues to climb in this new watershed in
order to reach it highest elevation at a point dividing Dry
Creek Basin and Big Gypsum Valley. The real summit along the
road is actually also a water divide, but not a named one. It
divides Dry Creek Basin from the Big Gypsum Creek
drainage. Dry Creek Basin is a closed Basin, ie.
precipitation evaporates inside the watershed. This makes the
real summit a more unusual divide than the named pass.
From North. The approach is described in a downward
direction. The road drops straight as an arrow into
Basin, which is a name on a map for a sometimes open store
with informative BLM signage. The tablet explains the special
nature of this watershed. Amazingly the highest parts of the
drainage receive over 30 inches annual precipitation, which in
other localities is enough to support downright jungle like
forests. Take the of northern part of New York state for
instance, which gets roughly the same amount. But here in Dry
Creek Basin all of this moisture is evaporated by the sun,
however not before doing its utmost to erode the watershed,
much to the displeasure of the ranchers in this area. The rest
of the sign forest describes their efforts to deter nature
from this feat.
Tours
Dayrides. A circular dayride beginning at the
unofficial Lone Cone SWA
summit(u), following a dirt road through Disappointment
Valley to Co141, crossing Gypsum Pass and returning via Sandy's
Fort Pass measured 84 miles with 5220 feet of climbing
over 6.5 hours, using a Cateye 100AT cycle computer.
History
Escalante (<Hesperus
Pass|Columbine Pass>).
The low mesas surrounding Gypsum Gap don't force the overland
traveler to stay in the valleys. Instead the flat topped mesas
are tempting goals to climb, so that one might get a better
overview of this complicated maze and catch a better view of
the La Sal Mountains gleaming to the north. In this light it
is logical that the Dominquez Escalante expedition of 1776 did
not cross Gypsum Gap, but near it.
But their motives were very different than those of a
hiker, biker or a modern landscape photographer. After all
their mission was to blaze a trail to the Spanish missions of
Monterey, not leave a 2000 mile trail through the maze of
southwestern canyons, which today is memorialized by
innumerable signs saying in effect: "Escalante slept
here". A reconstruction of the route by Walter Briggs in
"Without Noise of Arms" has the expedition pass
through the eastern starting point of the profile, the Slick
Rock Bridge area. Wanting to adhere to their westerly course
to California they proceeded not along todays Co141, but up
the Dolores.
After finding further progress up McIntire Canyon and the
Dolores Canyon upstream from Big Gypsum Valley impassable,
they were faced with the difficult decision weather to change
their direction of travel. Since every padre and Indian guide
had a different opinion on how to proceed, they again did what
was logical, leave the matter to chance, or in their case
religion. They cast lots, trusting that God in the form of
lady luck would tell them the best course. Their diary does
not mention in what form they did this, weather they threw
stones on the ground, or played a game of luck.
God told them to follow the lay of the land which also
conveniently contained a good trail. This was Big Gypsum
Valley. Unfortunately it headed in exactly the opposite
direction, south east. Escalante's diary puts the course at
north east. This is just one reason why the reconstruction of
the route can be challenged. On the other hand, being off
course is a characteristic of the Escalante expedition. After
all who else passes over Gypsum Pass on their way from New
Mexico to California ?
Still, Miera, their cartographer Miera was annoyed to the
point that he persuaded the party to climb the mesa ridge to
the north, causing much grumbling and hardship in the group.
In this way the expedition crossed slightly north of the the
high point on the Gypsum Pass route into Dry Creek Basin. As
for Gypsum Pass itself ( located below the high point ), it
was circumnavigated with a four day detour to the north. All
that became apparent to our intrepid travelers on top of this
mesa ridge, that is bleak to the point of being fascinating,
before descending into Dry Creek Basin. The nearest spot on
the highway is marked by a sign saying in effect
"Escalante slept near here".
From here the group was able to travel north west again,
but only for a short distance, by following Dry Creek upstream
and following roughly the route of EE21rd over an
unnamed summit descending into Paradox Valley. There is no
evidence in the Escalante journals why at this point they did
not follow the Paradox Valley north west towards today's
Uravan, their preferred direction of travel. One has to assume
that Indian guides and perhaps the view of a wide valley
becoming ever deeper heading towards a major mountain range,
full of the threat of ever deeper canyons told them otherwise.
Instead the reconstruction of the route has them crossing
Paradox Valley and then Sawtooth Ridge in order to descend to
the next major river, playing a paramount role in the
Escalante journals, the San Pedro. Our maps label this river
as the San Miguel. From Indian guides they knew that their San
Pedro joined waters with the river that had the most influence
on their wandering lives so far, the Dolores. The location was
presumably near a range that they called the "sierra de
la Sal", the range of Salt, named after salt obtained
there by Ute Indians. Upstream they presumed the San Pedro and
San Miguel to originate in the Sierra de las Grullas, the
range of the cranes. Unlike the name "la Sal
Mountains", the mysterious designation Crane Mountains
has not survived. However they were correct in their
assumption that this river originated in a mountain complex
that had the importance of a continental backbone.
They elected to follow the San Miguel upstream, south east.
This was the wrong direction towards their goal. Downstream
would have brought them towards their goal, California. They
chose to head for the promise of mountains instead of the
thread of wandering a canyon maze again. This lead them onto
the Uncompahgre Plateau, where at least one speculation has
them crossing Columbine Pass.
| Gypsum Pass (Summary)
Pass Altitude/Max elevation: 6125ft/6610ft
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Western Approach:
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climb
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distance
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drop
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from Slick Rock Bridge (5470ft)
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1140ft
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12+1/2miles
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~300ft
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from jct with rd up Disappointment
Valey (5940ft)
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670ft
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6+1/2miles
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Western Approach:
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from jct with Co145 (5630ft)
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980ft
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18miles
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~100ft
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from Basin (6520ft)
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90ft
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5miles
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