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Baldy Pass

Shell Canyon on the west side of Granite Pass is the scenically most exciting paved climb in the Bighorn Mountains - in my opinion. But, the west side of Baldy Pass is the steepest, and with that the hardest climb - and that is not just an opinion.

Most US roads, that were built during the popular road building days of post WW2, have gentle grades, somewhere around 6 or 7 percent, so that Yellowstone bound tourists are not needlessly detained from their preordained appointment at Geyser Lodge, by suffering the indignity of having to shift gears. Much of the current road bed to the west of Baldy Pass is the result of a reconstruction, finished in 1983 with steeper than normal grades. It contains long 10 percent grade sections, and signs along the way try to create the impression, that you are about to endanger your life when entering this area. I imagine this is for the benefit of truck drivers with brake maintenance issues. The steep sections have very few turns, and that somehow fits in with the endless views of the massive dessert below, and the sweeping carpet quality of the plateau on top.


01.(mile00.0,5000ft) START-END WEST: west side of US14A bridge over Bighorn Lake
02.(mile11.2,5850ft)lower jct with Old US14A on left
03.(mile16.3,7980ft)upper jct with OLDUD14A on left
04.(mile21.0,9100ft)jct with FR13, immediately after Medicine Wheel turnoff
05.(mile26.3,9270ft)jct with FR15 on left
06.(mile27.3,9430ft)TOP: Baldy Pass
07.(mile28.4,9240ft)jct with FR10 Hunt Mtn Rd on right
08.(mile41.5,8110ft)Burgess Jct
09.(mile44.9,7700ft)low point between Granite Pass and Cutler Hill, where US14 crosses south Tongue River
10.(mile49.4,8340ft)Cutler Hill s(u)
11.(mile51.1,7970ft)jct with Black Mountain Road on right
12.(mile67.1,3960ft)START-END EAST: Dayton
 
 
 

Approaches

From West. The bottom of this profile is the causeway and bridge across Bighorn Reservoir, east of Lovell. This is already a scenically wondrous area. The Shoshone River's meanders are still visible inside the reservoir. It leaves soft wetland boundaries, that have formed on its shores. The first part of the climb is a six mile stretch, climbing almost imperceptively with a single slight bend, parallel to the exposed geology of the Bighorn Mountains. There are quite a few double trailer trucks on this road. But they all turn off before the mountains really start. Most of the shoulders have been rumble stripped, sometimes down the middle, sometimes so that riding on the shoulder is possible only with difficulty. But traffic is light.

Now the road turns up into the alluvial deposits in front of the range and the climbing becomes definitely noticeable. Layer cake badland hills appear to the north east and progress is gauged by how the perspective on these low hills changes.

At 5770ft is an interesting junction. The old Dayton - Kayne Highway, the predecessor of the current US14Alt roadbed branches off to the left, apparently still paved. I decide to take it.

By the time I have climbed a few hundred feet higher, I start to congratulate myself on the choice. While the new US14Alt roadbed makes a boring, straight and massive climb, visible in all its totality from my vantage point, my road makes a hundred turns and delivers new views on itself and the mountains at every turn. At the Five Springs Campground and trailhead I find a picnic table in dark cool shadows for lunch next to a gurgling stream. After lunch and 300ft higher I discover that, contrary to what the map on my gps shows, the road ends here. Apparently a part of the section that connects back to the regular US14Alt has not only been abandoned, but destroyed - and it really does look that way at the ironic traffic circle at the end of what would be one of the best cycling roads in the US (assuming that traffic circles can have an ironic quality).

At this point I think bad thoughts about the Wyoming highway department. Destroying this road requires as much stupidity as putting rumble strips on roads.

But then my mood improves, as I find two separate groups of tourists in camping vehicles, willing to sell me water - actually they want to give it to me, so that I can deal with the 90 plus temperatures and the additional 1000ft of climbing after returning to the junction.

The regular old boring US14Alt climbs in a straight away onto some easily deformable deposits. Large slumps in the road are the result. Looking up to the left the new road can be seen traversing up the mountain with the help of large, irregularly shaped reinforced walls (picture lower left). The section over theses ramps is the steepest and in retrospect also the most remarkable. It starts at a turnout with a sign, elucidating on the construction of the new roadbed in a self- congratulatory manner. The first road cut resembles a mining operation from the distance. But then, using only large radius curves the road manages to negotiate a gate of cliffs and arrive at a pullout, from which the lowest of the truck runaway ramps resembles an Olympic ski jumping ramp. It really is quite an extraordinary stretch of highway. At about 7800ft another paved road promises on the map to be the other end of the Dayton - Kayne Highway. Someday - when it's about 50 degrees cooler, I want to come back with a mountain bike and figure out this route.

There are some great views with US14Alt in the foreground from this point. Here a short relaxation phase begins, as I traverse along what appears to be the edge of the plateau. The cool air from the top is blowing against me, giving relief from the August heat for the first time. A parking lot the size of a conference center contains two informational signs, scattered about the large area, so that tourists actually drive their cars from one sign to the other and exit the car a second time in order to read it. I watched this several times during my lunch break. The rest area here is called a "brake cooling area".

After that comes another climbing section up a straight ramp, with the road turning barely a single degree, before reaching the next truck runaway ramp on the other side. When the flowing green hills on top come into sight, a sign instructs drivers to "study the sign carefully". It shows the three ten percent grades with dramatic horizontal exaggeration. But that is behind me and I continue to climb in a straight line. 

Now the grade gentrifies and the road enters the sweeping hills of the high plateau. Several miles of this lead to a final moderate climb with Hunt Mountain in the background, forming what resembles two large breaking waves in this landscape of gigantic rolling green hills. A poorly defined trail from the top, leading straight north across the bare landscape direction sheep herds below, is open to bicycles.


From East. (also described upwards) Crossing the Bighorn Mountains east to west on pavement always involves two summit points, even if the eastern summits don't receive much attention. But they are separated by drops greater than 500ft. On US14 it's Cutler Hill s(u) and it's included in the profile. See that page for a description of the right side of the profile. After that US14 reaches a low point west of Sibley Lake, before making a small climb back up to Burgess Junction, which is only what it says, a junction. From here the profile stays right and goes up Baldy Pass, while the left would lead up an even shallower grade to Granite Pass.

The road to Baldy Pass follows a gentle grassy valley along the North Tongue River. Every couple of miles a grassy track leads to a fishing area. Just as often a rocky ledge peaks through the forested hills. Approaching the top the grade becomes a little steeper and the landscape turns to endless grassy hills, spreading out like a cool high carpet between 9 thousand and 10 thousand feet in elevation. The pass summit is at a curve that reveals a stunning far view of the Bighorn Basin and its rippled badlands below. The top has the typical-for-Wyoming overly spacious parking lot. The sign says nothing about Baldy Pass. Instead it states: "Observation Point 9430ft". But the name Baldy Pass is used on many maps and commonly used.

Dayride with this point as highest summit:

COMPLETELY PAVED:

( < sama page | Tunnel Rd(sh?) > )
Baldy Pass x2 : near jct FR15 - US14Alt > down US14Alt west << turnaround point on Bighorn Reservoir Causeway > up US14Alt east <> out and back to end of pavement on Dayton - Kayne Highway >> up US14 Alt east > Baldy Pass << turnaround point around 320ft below summit > Baldy Pass > back to starting point on FR15: 71.2miles with 7810ft of climbing in 6:58hrs (Garmin etrex30 m5:15.8.13)
Notes: slow ride with dozens of photo stops on the descend and more dozens of stops on the climb to avoid heat stroke. The Garmin device seems to include short stops in its moving time measurement. Also includes a very short nonessential, unpaved section on FR15 (less than half a mile)

PARTIALLY PAVED / UNPAVED

( < FR17 Paintrock Road s(u) | same page > )
Baldy Pass , Baldy Pass via FR15(sh) , FR15 Burgess Rd s(u) , additional out and back: camping site on FR159 > FR159 north > US14Alt east > Burgess Jct > FR15 north west > FR15 Burgess Rd s(u) > jct FR15 - US14Alt <> out and back down US14Alt > old US14Alt > to turnaround point old old US14Alt at 8420ft >> Baldy Pass > US14Alt east > back to starting point on FR159: 63.2miles with 5190ft of climbing in 6:03hrs (Garmin etrex30 M5:15.8.12)
Notes: FR15 Burgess Road crosses the ridge at a lower point than Baldy Pass, without any interesting views. It's a deep gravel road - definitely not recommended. Baldy Pass is a much better option in all aspects. - Low point of US14Alt on this ride was at 7880.
The Baldy Pass via Fr15(sh) point is only a summit point when the western part of US14Alt is approached by FR15. It is located at snowfence where Hunt Mountain comes into sight



History

Modern Roads:  The east side was opened first to get mining equipment to the top of the pass to what was then the Fortunate Mine in the 1890s. In 1912 this access from the east was on its way to being improved, By this time gold mining was already history. At the same time the first track up the western side was established. It was known as the Salt Road, because it was used to transport salt to summer pastures.

In 1922 this high pass was planned to become part of a highway between Sheridan and Greybull. By 1932 this had become a through going road with a width between 10 to 24ft. It was already paved by the mid 1930s. The original 14A, much of which has now been destroyed was known as the Dayton-Kane  Road for the two towns it connected. Today you can't find Kane on the map, because it is located at the bottom of Big Horn Reservoir.

Construction on the current road bed started with a bridge over the Bighorn Lake Causeway in the 1960s. It took till 1983 till the road was completed. The construction has five reinforced earth walls with an unusual construction, where the outer retaining wall is made from metal strips.


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