|
Lizard Head Pass
A steep spire graces the top of a rounded 13000 foot
mountain like the horn on the head of a unicorn. The
combination has evoked the image of a lizard head in early
travelers, and this pass acquired its name. The best view
of Lizard Head Peak, that I know of, is from Blackhawk
Pass. As seen from the Lizard Head Pass road, the rock
looks rather more like a monument standing in isolation,
something fit for a southwestern canyon but somehow
isolated from its alpine environment. Other high alpine
mountains are visible during a bike tour over the pass.
Flanks of three 14 thousand foot peaks, El Diente, Mount
Wilson and Wilson Peak can be glimpsed from far below,
when a gap in the deep green canyoned foreground appears,
to let the snow covered heights shine through.
The Lizard Head Pass - Dallas Divide route is one of two
modern asphalt ribbons laid across the San Juan Mountains.
Both run in a north southerly direction. One is the Lizard
Head Pass - Dallas Divide
Route, the other the more centrally located Molas
Pass/ Coal Bank Summit
- Red Mountain Pass
route. The route over Lizard Head Pass was more important
in the very early history, but then was eclipsed by
economic factors. When two railheads reached to both
bottoms of Red Mountain
Pass, it became the focus of road building activity.
Lizard Head Pass is also the western most paved pass in
the San Juans. The summit that would intuitively occupy
that position, the Dallas Divide, reaches within one mile
"westerliness". In spite of this, the view to
the west of Lizard Head Pass is not of a landscape falling
off onto a plain, but of more mountains.
 |
01.(6930ft,mile00) START-END SOUTH:
Dolores
02.(7480ft,mile16) Stoner
03.(7690ft,mile20) Taylor Creek dirt road leaves on
left
04.(8820ft,mile38) START-END SOUTH ALTERNATE: Rico
05.(9340ft,mile45) Dunton road joins from left
06.(10222ft,mile50) TOP: Lizard Head Pass
07.(9270ft,mile55) turnoff at Ophir Loop to Ophir
Pass is on right
08.(8670ft,mile63) START-END NORTH ALTERNATE:
Telluride is to the right at this T. Profile
continues to left
09.(7550ft,mile72) Sawpit
10.(7320ft,mile75) Placerville
11.(7300ft,mile76) START-END NORTH: junction with
Co62 and Dallas Divide Profile |
Approaches
From North. The first stretch of road, between Co62
connecting to the Dallas Divide, and Telluride can be
unpleasant to ride during times when the rich commute to their
weekend properties in Telluride en masse. At the turnoff to
Telluride stands a new super sized gas station, doing all it
can to dispel the idea of picturesqueness, and charging record
prices for both milk and gasoline. Past the Telluride turnoff
Co145 climbs a slanted plateau above the South Fork of the San
Miguel River, affording good views of Sunshine Mountain. The
climb surprises through its relatively shallow grade, even
some extended downhills. The major peaks visible from here are
set behind the steep canyon, carved by the South Fork of
the San Miguel. The road makes a hook to the east to cover
Ophir Loop, the site of Otto Mears adventurous railroad
trestle construction. Once the road passes mountain ringed
Trout Lake and its surrounding peaks the summit is only 2 and
a half miles away.
From South. The ride from Stoner following the
Dolores River is unsurpassed in its length as a barely
noticeable, gradual climb. The route follows the forested
canyon of the Dolores River as steady as you can. This is a
more sedate ride without the scenic drama of Telluride's box
canyon or the high peaks of the summit. Even when the grade
finally picks up, past the Dunton turnoff, the most talked
about view is that of the needle like rock piercing skyward
rather than the high ranges hidden mostly from view. The
summit is a broad alpine meadow, a rugged wall rising to the
east, which is especially stone curtain like during very late
light. The area is often used as primitive camp site.
Tours
One week road tour. Lizard Head Pass can be the
second day of a grand, one week road circle over the best
passes in the San Juan Mountains. The circle can begin in
Montrose or Ridgway. First crossing the Dallas
Divide, the second day leads from Telluride to Stoner,
covering 55 miles, as measured with an old rubber string
driven mechanical odometer. Your mileage may vary. Next in
line on this tour are Hesperus
Pass, Molas and Coal
Bank Passes, finishing the circle with Red
Mountain Pass.
One Week (Very) Large Group Ride: (<Grand
Mesa summit(u)|North La
Veta Pass>): Between 1986 and 2005 Lizard Head Pass was
twice on the Denver Post's "Ride the Rockies"
itinerary. It is difficult to include the many great San Juan
passes very often in a route that is usually anchored in
Denver. But it happened in 99 and 03. The stage was Cortez to
Telluride.

History
The nearby Dallas Divide was part of the well traveled Old
Spanish Trail. Its proximity can be used to explain that
Lizard Head Pass was also traveled by early Spanish explorers,
and that a trail crossed by the mid 1830s.
Hayden Survey (<Red
Mountain Pass|Stony Pass>):
In 1874 the area of prime mapping concern for the Hayden
Survey was not the top of Lizard Head Pass, but rather access
routes to an area showing signs of great mineral wealth,
Baker's Park or today's Silverton area to the east. The survey
had explored potential roads out of the isolated mountain
valley in all directions, including today's general routes
over Molas/ Coal Bank
passes, Cinnamon Pass and Red
Mountain Pass. None of them showed potential for a road
that could carry heavy mining equipment. In the next futile
attempt we see them ascending the south fork of Vermilion
Creek, then scrambling over something they named Bear Creek
Pass, only to arrive above Trout Lake, near the top of Lizard
Head Pass. This was a mountaineering route, definitely
unsuitable for heavy mining equipment. They mapped the area,
then climbed Wilson Peak and Mount Sneffels. They scrambled
back over the same difficult route to Silverton. Their
search for a road suitable for heavy equipment continued from
Silverton to Stony Pass.
In spite of the fact that the Hayden Survey's priorities,
guided by economic realities of the time, were centered
further east, a wagon road crossed Lizard Head Pass before the
other San Juan north south axis, the Red Mountain Pass route
was improved into a reliable toll road by Otto Mears. A wagon
road existed over Lizard Head Pass already by the 1870s. But
when railheads reached both sides of Red Mountain Pass in
Ouray and Silverton it became the principal axis of ore
removal from the San Juans.
Railroads(<Dallas
Divide|Rollins Pass>):
If not Red Mountain Pass,
then Lizard Head Pass. This was Otto's motto. An attempt to
lay rail over Red Mountain Pass in order to provide a missing
link between Denver Rio Grande tracks in Ridgway and Durango
was left dangling on a cliff over Red Mountain Pass. But Otto
Mears would not let his dreams of a railroad through the San
Juan Mountains slip away so easily.
The Rio Grand Southern railway began building at both ends.
Starting at existing DRG tracks in Durango the southern
division crossed Hesperus Pass. After crossing the Dallas
Divide from Ridgway, the northern division turned up the
San Miguel river, servicing mines wherever profitable,
Placerville by the fall of 1890, followed by a spur to the
Pandora mine near Columbia. - Columbia ? you say. Later
Columbia was deplored by the postal service to change its name
because of a bewildering preponderance of that name. Telluride
seemed an appropriate name for a town where silver had just
been found inside this mineral, and Telluride it became.
After completing the profitable spur to Telluride, the real
challenge of the entire venture was now ahead, the final leg
over Lizard Head Pass. To the cyclist who has crossed Red
Mountain Pass and Lizard Head Pass the problems faced by track
construction here may actually seem more difficult than over
Red Mountain Pass. Both passes must overcome a box like canyon
where the plateau characteristics of the San Juans become
apparent. On Lizard Head Pass this happens near Ophir. Otto's
answer was the Ophir Loop, a curved trestle switchback
connecting two mountain shelfs, located above the turnoff to
Ophir Pass. This time the effort was successful and rails
crossed the gentle top between peeks ramping skywards in mid
1891. More trestles were required to descend the other side,
where rails crossed the Dolores river about halfways between
Ophir and Rico, labeled these days as the Galagher trestles.
Lizard Head Pass was Mears' final pass building triumph. It
seems fitting that he used a view of the needle like peak for
which the pass is named, when publicizing the rail journey.
The magnanimous detour was finally complete when the
celebratory last spike was driven between the spurs from both
ends near Stoner. Rail through the San Juans at last!
After three years of work Otto Mears had his missing rail link
in December 1891, all 217 miles of it. The distance over the
wagon road between Silverton and Ouray, also belonging to him,
was only 26 miles. To celebrate the event Mears hired famous
Hayden expedition photographer Jackson to ride along on the
first journey and stop the train wherever inspiration struck.
There was no shortage of narrow gauge rolling stock for the
railroad. The DRG had converted to regular gauge. But
discarded DRG narrow gauge stock continued to steam on the Rio
Grande Southern.
After this remarkable effort this comes as a shock. But it
only took two years for this "futile, transcendently
triumphant" railroad to go bankrupt. It wasn't really
Otto's fault. He had already proved his keen business sense by
building an empire of toll roads stretching across Colorado.
In 1893 president Cleveland repealed the Sherman Silver
Purchase Act, legislation that had in effect subsidized silver
production and kept the mines operating at the expense of the
taxpayer. The resulting panic put an end to the boom heard in
Leadville many years earlier. But this thread is about the
railroad, and it survived.
The DRG took receivership and steamed on. Especially hard
times struck during the great depression, when another
whimsical invention ingrained images of strange and weird rail
travel into the minds of thousands, if not millions.
The vehicle dubbed the Galloping Goose begins in front with
the sporty body of a Pierce Arrow Motor car. Without
transition it metamorphoses to a full blown school bus, only
to have a truck bed attached to its rear. The whole thing
teeters on narrow gauge bogies that make the whole contrapture
look like it's about to tip over. The image of a galloping
goose, prominently displayed on the door of the school bus
portion completes the unique picture. To me personally, the
goose looks like it is sprinting. But who am I to say weather
a goose gallops or sprints, when they are not really known for
either. Galloping Goose is the official name for the vehicle.
Trains were still running over Lizard Head Pass in 1952. But
just a year later, even the steel rails were gone.
The images of the Otto Mears railroads remain. The Denver
Rio Grande Southern, but especially Silverton Railroad are
favorites with railroad modelers. This railroad is the
undisputed quaintest, most charming, irresponsible and
unpredictable railroad around. A scene modeled after the
Silverton provokes suspicion of an overactive imagination,
when instead it was inspired by a historical photograph.
| Lizard Head Pass (Summary)
Elevation/Highest Point: 10222ft
|
|
Eastern Approach:
|
climb
|
distance
|
drop
|
from Dolores (6930ft)
|
3292ft
|
50miles
|
|
from Rico (8820ft)
|
1402ft
|
12+1/2miles
|
|
Western Approach:
|
|
|
|
from jct with Co62 to Dallas Divide
(7300ft)
|
2922ft
|
25+1/2miles
|
~600ft
|
from jct with rd to Telluride
(8670ft)
|
1552ft
|
13miles
|
~600ft
|
|
----------
View
Larger Map
----------
|
|
|
|
|
Lizard Head Pass
A steep spire graces the top of a rounded 13000 foot
mountain like the horn on the head of a unicorn. The
combination has evoked the image of a lizard head in early
travelers, and this pass acquired its name. The best view
of Lizard Head Peak, that I know of, is from Blackhawk
Pass. As seen from the Lizard Head Pass road, the rock
looks rather more like a monument standing in isolation,
something fit for a southwestern canyon but somehow
isolated from its alpine environment. Other high alpine
mountains are visible during a bike tour over the pass.
Flanks of three 14 thousand foot peaks, El Diente, Mount
Wilson and Wilson Peak can be glimpsed from far below,
when a gap in the deep green canyoned foreground appears,
to let the snow covered heights shine through.
The Lizard Head Pass - Dallas Divide route is one of two
modern asphalt ribbons laid across the San Juan Mountains.
Both run in a north southerly direction. One is the Lizard
Head Pass - Dallas Divide
Route, the other the more centrally located Molas
Pass/ Coal Bank Summit
- Red Mountain Pass
route. The route over Lizard Head Pass was more important
in the very early history, but then was eclipsed by
economic factors. When two railheads reached to both
bottoms of Red Mountain
Pass, it became the focus of road building activity.
Lizard Head Pass is also the western most paved pass in
the San Juans. The summit that would intuitively occupy
that position, the Dallas Divide, reaches within one mile
"westerliness". In spite of this, the view to
the west of Lizard Head Pass is not of a landscape falling
off onto a plain, but of more mountains.

click on profile for more detail
|
01.(6930ft,mile00) START-END SOUTH:
Dolores
02.(7480ft,mile16) Stoner
03.(7690ft,mile20) Taylor Creek dirt road leaves on
left
04.(8820ft,mile38) START-END SOUTH ALTERNATE: Rico
05.(9340ft,mile45) Dunton road joins from left
06.(10222ft,mile50) TOP: Lizard Head Pass
07.(9270ft,mile55) turnoff at Ophir Loop to Ophir
Pass is on right
08.(8670ft,mile63) START-END NORTH ALTERNATE:
Telluride is to the right at this T. Profile
continues to left
09.(7550ft,mile72) Sawpit
10.(7320ft,mile75) Placerville
11.(7300ft,mile76) START-END NORTH: junction with
Co62 and Dallas Divide Profile |
Approaches
From North. The first stretch of road, between Co62
connecting to the Dallas Divide, and Telluride can be
unpleasant to ride during times when the rich commute to their
weekend properties in Telluride en masse. At the turnoff to
Telluride stands a new super sized gas station, doing all it
can to dispel the idea of picturesqueness, and charging record
prices for both milk and gasoline. Past the Telluride turnoff
Co145 climbs a slanted plateau above the South Fork of the San
Miguel River, affording good views of Sunshine Mountain. The
climb surprises through its relatively shallow grade, even
some extended downhills. The major peaks visible from here are
set behind the steep canyon, carved by the South Fork of
the San Miguel. The road makes a hook to the east to cover
Ophir Loop, the site of Otto Mears adventurous railroad
trestle construction. Once the road passes mountain ringed
Trout Lake and its surrounding peaks the summit is only 2 and
a half miles away.
From South. The ride from Stoner following the
Dolores River is unsurpassed in its length as a barely
noticeable, gradual climb. The route follows the forested
canyon of the Dolores River as steady as you can. This is a
more sedate ride without the scenic drama of Telluride's box
canyon or the high peaks of the summit. Even when the grade
finally picks up, past the Dunton turnoff, the most talked
about view is that of the needle like rock piercing skyward
rather than the high ranges hidden mostly from view. The
summit is a broad alpine meadow, a rugged wall rising to the
east, which is especially stone curtain like during very late
light. The area is often used as primitive camp site.
Tours
One week road tour. Lizard Head Pass can be the
second day of a grand, one week road circle over the best
passes in the San Juan Mountains. The circle can begin in
Montrose or Ridgway. First crossing the Dallas
Divide, the second day leads from Telluride to Stoner,
covering 55 miles, as measured with an old rubber string
driven mechanical odometer. Your mileage may vary. Next in
line on this tour are Hesperus
Pass, Molas and Coal
Bank Passes, finishing the circle with Red
Mountain Pass.
One Week (Very) Large Group Ride: (<Grand
Mesa summit(u)|North La
Veta Pass>): Between 1986 and 2005 Lizard Head Pass was
twice on the Denver Post's "Ride the Rockies"
itinerary. It is difficult to include the many great San Juan
passes very often in a route that is usually anchored in
Denver. But it happened in 99 and 03. The stage was Cortez to
Telluride.

History
The nearby Dallas Divide was part of the well traveled Old
Spanish Trail. Its proximity can be used to explain that
Lizard Head Pass was also traveled by early Spanish explorers,
and that a trail crossed by the mid 1830s.
Hayden Survey (<Red
Mountain Pass|Stony Pass>):
In 1874 the area of prime mapping concern for the Hayden
Survey was not the top of Lizard Head Pass, but rather access
routes to an area showing signs of great mineral wealth,
Baker's Park or today's Silverton area to the east. The survey
had explored potential roads out of the isolated mountain
valley in all directions, including today's general routes
over Molas/ Coal Bank
passes, Cinnamon Pass and Red
Mountain Pass. None of them showed potential for a road
that could carry heavy mining equipment. In the next futile
attempt we see them ascending the south fork of Vermilion
Creek, then scrambling over something they named Bear Creek
Pass, only to arrive above Trout Lake, near the top of Lizard
Head Pass. This was a mountaineering route, definitely
unsuitable for heavy mining equipment. They mapped the area,
then climbed Wilson Peak and Mount Sneffels. They scrambled
back over the same difficult route to Silverton. Their
search for a road suitable for heavy equipment continued from
Silverton to Stony Pass.
In spite of the fact that the Hayden Survey's priorities,
guided by economic realities of the time, were centered
further east, a wagon road crossed Lizard Head Pass before the
other San Juan north south axis, the Red Mountain Pass route
was improved into a reliable toll road by Otto Mears. A wagon
road existed over Lizard Head Pass already by the 1870s. But
when railheads reached both sides of Red Mountain Pass in
Ouray and Silverton it became the principal axis of ore
removal from the San Juans.
Railroads(<Dallas
Divide|Rollins Pass>):
If not Red Mountain Pass,
then Lizard Head Pass. This was Otto's motto. An attempt to
lay rail over Red Mountain Pass in order to provide a missing
link between Denver Rio Grande tracks in Ridgway and Durango
was left dangling on a cliff over Red Mountain Pass. But Otto
Mears would not let his dreams of a railroad through the San
Juan Mountains slip away so easily.
The Rio Grand Southern railway began building at both ends.
Starting at existing DRG tracks in Durango the southern
division crossed Hesperus Pass. After crossing the Dallas
Divide from Ridgway, the northern division turned up the
San Miguel river, servicing mines wherever profitable,
Placerville by the fall of 1890, followed by a spur to the
Pandora mine near Columbia. - Columbia ? you say. Later
Columbia was deplored by the postal service to change its name
because of a bewildering preponderance of that name. Telluride
seemed an appropriate name for a town where silver had just
been found inside this mineral, and Telluride it became.
After completing the profitable spur to Telluride, the real
challenge of the entire venture was now ahead, the final leg
over Lizard Head Pass. To the cyclist who has crossed Red
Mountain Pass and Lizard Head Pass the problems faced by track
construction here may actually seem more difficult than over
Red Mountain Pass. Both passes must overcome a box like canyon
where the plateau characteristics of the San Juans become
apparent. On Lizard Head Pass this happens near Ophir. Otto's
answer was the Ophir Loop, a curved trestle switchback
connecting two mountain shelfs, located above the turnoff to
Ophir Pass. This time the effort was successful and rails
crossed the gentle top between peeks ramping skywards in mid
1891. More trestles were required to descend the other side,
where rails crossed the Dolores river about halfways between
Ophir and Rico, labeled these days as the Galagher trestles.
Lizard Head Pass was Mears' final pass building triumph. It
seems fitting that he used a view of the needle like peak for
which the pass is named, when publicizing the rail journey.
The magnanimous detour was finally complete when the
celebratory last spike was driven between the spurs from both
ends near Stoner. Rail through the San Juans at last!
After three years of work Otto Mears had his missing rail link
in December 1891, all 217 miles of it. The distance over the
wagon road between Silverton and Ouray, also belonging to him,
was only 26 miles. To celebrate the event Mears hired famous
Hayden expedition photographer Jackson to ride along on the
first journey and stop the train wherever inspiration struck.
There was no shortage of narrow gauge rolling stock for the
railroad. The DRG had converted to regular gauge. But
discarded DRG narrow gauge stock continued to steam on the Rio
Grande Southern.
After this remarkable effort this comes as a shock. But it
only took two years for this "futile, transcendently
triumphant" railroad to go bankrupt. It wasn't really
Otto's fault. He had already proved his keen business sense by
building an empire of toll roads stretching across Colorado.
In 1893 president Cleveland repealed the Sherman Silver
Purchase Act, legislation that had in effect subsidized silver
production and kept the mines operating at the expense of the
taxpayer. The resulting panic put an end to the boom heard in
Leadville many years earlier. But this thread is about the
railroad, and it survived.
The DRG took receivership and steamed on. Especially hard
times struck during the great depression, when another
whimsical invention ingrained images of strange and weird rail
travel into the minds of thousands, if not millions.
The vehicle dubbed the Galloping Goose begins in front with
the sporty body of a Pierce Arrow Motor car. Without
transition it metamorphoses to a full blown school bus, only
to have a truck bed attached to its rear. The whole thing
teeters on narrow gauge bogies that make the whole contrapture
look like it's about to tip over. The image of a galloping
goose, prominently displayed on the door of the school bus
portion completes the unique picture. To me personally, the
goose looks like it is sprinting. But who am I to say weather
a goose gallops or sprints, when they are not really known for
either. Galloping Goose is the official name for the vehicle.
Trains were still running over Lizard Head Pass in 1952. But
just a year later, even the steel rails were gone.
The images of the Otto Mears railroads remain. The Denver
Rio Grande Southern, but especially Silverton Railroad are
favorites with railroad modelers. This railroad is the
undisputed quaintest, most charming, irresponsible and
unpredictable railroad around. A scene modeled after the
Silverton provokes suspicion of an overactive imagination,
when instead it was inspired by a historical photograph.
| Lizard Head Pass (Summary)
Elevation/Highest Point: 10222ft
|
|
Eastern Approach:
|
climb
|
distance
|
drop
|
from Dolores (6930ft)
|
3292ft
|
50miles
|
|
from Rico (8820ft)
|
1402ft
|
12+1/2miles
|
|
Western Approach:
|
|
|
|
from jct with Co62 to Dallas Divide
(7300ft)
|
2922ft
|
25+1/2miles
|
~600ft
|
from jct with rd to Telluride
(8670ft)
|
1552ft
|
13miles
|
~600ft
|
|
----------
View
Larger Map
----------
|
|
|
|
|
Lizard Head Pass
A steep spire graces the top of a rounded 13000 foot
mountain like the horn on the head of a unicorn. The
combination has evoked the image of a lizard head in early
travelers, and this pass acquired its name. The best view
of Lizard Head Peak, that I know of, is from Blackhawk
Pass. As seen from the Lizard Head Pass road, the rock
looks rather more like a monument standing in isolation,
something fit for a southwestern canyon but somehow
isolated from its alpine environment. Other high alpine
mountains are visible during a bike tour over the pass.
Flanks of three 14 thousand foot peaks, El Diente, Mount
Wilson and Wilson Peak can be glimpsed from far below,
when a gap in the deep green canyoned foreground appears,
to let the snow covered heights shine through.
The Lizard Head Pass - Dallas Divide route is one of two
modern asphalt ribbons laid across the San Juan Mountains.
Both run in a north southerly direction. One is the Lizard
Head Pass - Dallas Divide
Route, the other the more centrally located Molas
Pass/ Coal Bank Summit
- Red Mountain Pass
route. The route over Lizard Head Pass was more important
in the very early history, but then was eclipsed by
economic factors. When two railheads reached to both
bottoms of Red Mountain
Pass, it became the focus of road building activity.
Lizard Head Pass is also the western most paved pass in
the San Juans. The summit that would intuitively occupy
that position, the Dallas Divide, reaches within one mile
"westerliness". In spite of this, the view to
the west of Lizard Head Pass is not of a landscape falling
off onto a plain, but of more mountains.

click on profile for more detail
|
01.(6930ft,mile00) START-END SOUTH:
Dolores
02.(7480ft,mile16) Stoner
03.(7690ft,mile20) Taylor Creek dirt road leaves on
left
04.(8820ft,mile38) START-END SOUTH ALTERNATE: Rico
05.(9340ft,mile45) Dunton road joins from left
06.(10222ft,mile50) TOP: Lizard Head Pass
07.(9270ft,mile55) turnoff at Ophir Loop to Ophir
Pass is on right
08.(8670ft,mile63) START-END NORTH ALTERNATE:
Telluride is to the right at this T. Profile
continues to left
09.(7550ft,mile72) Sawpit
10.(7320ft,mile75) Placerville
11.(7300ft,mile76) START-END NORTH: junction with
Co62 and Dallas Divide Profile |
Approaches
From North. The first stretch of road, between Co62
connecting to the Dallas Divide, and Telluride can be
unpleasant to ride during times when the rich commute to their
weekend properties in Telluride en masse. At the turnoff to
Telluride stands a new super sized gas station, doing all it
can to dispel the idea of picturesqueness, and charging record
prices for both milk and gasoline. Past the Telluride turnoff
Co145 climbs a slanted plateau above the South Fork of the San
Miguel River, affording good views of Sunshine Mountain. The
climb surprises through its relatively shallow grade, even
some extended downhills. The major peaks visible from here are
set behind the steep canyon, carved by the South Fork of
the San Miguel. The road makes a hook to the east to cover
Ophir Loop, the site of Otto Mears adventurous railroad
trestle construction. Once the road passes mountain ringed
Trout Lake and its surrounding peaks the summit is only 2 and
a half miles away.
From South. The ride from Stoner following the
Dolores River is unsurpassed in its length as a barely
noticeable, gradual climb. The route follows the forested
canyon of the Dolores River as steady as you can. This is a
more sedate ride without the scenic drama of Telluride's box
canyon or the high peaks of the summit. Even when the grade
finally picks up, past the Dunton turnoff, the most talked
about view is that of the needle like rock piercing skyward
rather than the high ranges hidden mostly from view. The
summit is a broad alpine meadow, a rugged wall rising to the
east, which is especially stone curtain like during very late
light. The area is often used as primitive camp site.
Tours
One week road tour. Lizard Head Pass can be the
second day of a grand, one week road circle over the best
passes in the San Juan Mountains. The circle can begin in
Montrose or Ridgway. First crossing the Dallas
Divide, the second day leads from Telluride to Stoner,
covering 55 miles, as measured with an old rubber string
driven mechanical odometer. Your mileage may vary. Next in
line on this tour are Hesperus
Pass, Molas and Coal
Bank Passes, finishing the circle with Red
Mountain Pass.
One Week (Very) Large Group Ride: (<Grand
Mesa summit(u)|North La
Veta Pass>): Between 1986 and 2005 Lizard Head Pass was
twice on the Denver Post's "Ride the Rockies"
itinerary. It is difficult to include the many great San Juan
passes very often in a route that is usually anchored in
Denver. But it happened in 99 and 03. The stage was Cortez to
Telluride.

History
The nearby Dallas Divide was part of the well traveled Old
Spanish Trail. Its proximity can be used to explain that
Lizard Head Pass was also traveled by early Spanish explorers,
and that a trail crossed by the mid 1830s.
Hayden Survey (<Red
Mountain Pass|Stony Pass>):
In 1874 the area of prime mapping concern for the Hayden
Survey was not the top of Lizard Head Pass, but rather access
routes to an area showing signs of great mineral wealth,
Baker's Park or today's Silverton area to the east. The survey
had explored potential roads out of the isolated mountain
valley in all directions, including today's general routes
over Molas/ Coal Bank
passes, Cinnamon Pass and Red
Mountain Pass. None of them showed potential for a road
that could carry heavy mining equipment. In the next futile
attempt we see them ascending the south fork of Vermilion
Creek, then scrambling over something they named Bear Creek
Pass, only to arrive above Trout Lake, near the top of Lizard
Head Pass. This was a mountaineering route, definitely
unsuitable for heavy mining equipment. They mapped the area,
then climbed Wilson Peak and Mount Sneffels. They scrambled
back over the same difficult route to Silverton. Their
search for a road suitable for heavy equipment continued from
Silverton to Stony Pass.
In spite of the fact that the Hayden Survey's priorities,
guided by economic realities of the time, were centered
further east, a wagon road crossed Lizard Head Pass before the
other San Juan north south axis, the Red Mountain Pass route
was improved into a reliable toll road by Otto Mears. A wagon
road existed over Lizard Head Pass already by the 1870s. But
when railheads reached both sides of Red Mountain Pass in
Ouray and Silverton it became the principal axis of ore
removal from the San Juans.
Railroads(<Dallas
Divide|Rollins Pass>):
If not Red Mountain Pass,
then Lizard Head Pass. This was Otto's motto. An attempt to
lay rail over Red Mountain Pass in order to provide a missing
link between Denver Rio Grande tracks in Ridgway and Durango
was left dangling on a cliff over Red Mountain Pass. But Otto
Mears would not let his dreams of a railroad through the San
Juan Mountains slip away so easily.
The Rio Grand Southern railway began building at both ends.
Starting at existing DRG tracks in Durango the southern
division crossed Hesperus Pass. After crossing the Dallas
Divide from Ridgway, the northern division turned up the
San Miguel river, servicing mines wherever profitable,
Placerville by the fall of 1890, followed by a spur to the
Pandora mine near Columbia. - Columbia ? you say. Later
Columbia was deplored by the postal service to change its name
because of a bewildering preponderance of that name. Telluride
seemed an appropriate name for a town where silver had just
been found inside this mineral, and Telluride it became.
After completing the profitable spur to Telluride, the real
challenge of the entire venture was now ahead, the final leg
over Lizard Head Pass. To the cyclist who has crossed Red
Mountain Pass and Lizard Head Pass the problems faced by track
construction here may actually seem more difficult than over
Red Mountain Pass. Both passes must overcome a box like canyon
where the plateau characteristics of the San Juans become
apparent. On Lizard Head Pass this happens near Ophir. Otto's
answer was the Ophir Loop, a curved trestle switchback
connecting two mountain shelfs, located above the turnoff to
Ophir Pass. This time the effort was successful and rails
crossed the gentle top between peeks ramping skywards in mid
1891. More trestles were required to descend the other side,
where rails crossed the Dolores river about halfways between
Ophir and Rico, labeled these days as the Galagher trestles.
Lizard Head Pass was Mears' final pass building triumph. It
seems fitting that he used a view of the needle like peak for
which the pass is named, when publicizing the rail journey.
The magnanimous detour was finally complete when the
celebratory last spike was driven between the spurs from both
ends near Stoner. Rail through the San Juans at last!
After three years of work Otto Mears had his missing rail link
in December 1891, all 217 miles of it. The distance over the
wagon road between Silverton and Ouray, also belonging to him,
was only 26 miles. To celebrate the event Mears hired famous
Hayden expedition photographer Jackson to ride along on the
first journey and stop the train wherever inspiration struck.
There was no shortage of narrow gauge rolling stock for the
railroad. The DRG had converted to regular gauge. But
discarded DRG narrow gauge stock continued to steam on the Rio
Grande Southern.
After this remarkable effort this comes as a shock. But it
only took two years for this "futile, transcendently
triumphant" railroad to go bankrupt. It wasn't really
Otto's fault. He had already proved his keen business sense by
building an empire of toll roads stretching across Colorado.
In 1893 president Cleveland repealed the Sherman Silver
Purchase Act, legislation that had in effect subsidized silver
production and kept the mines operating at the expense of the
taxpayer. The resulting panic put an end to the boom heard in
Leadville many years earlier. But this thread is about the
railroad, and it survived.
The DRG took receivership and steamed on. Especially hard
times struck during the great depression, when another
whimsical invention ingrained images of strange and weird rail
travel into the minds of thousands, if not millions.
The vehicle dubbed the Galloping Goose begins in front with
the sporty body of a Pierce Arrow Motor car. Without
transition it metamorphoses to a full blown school bus, only
to have a truck bed attached to its rear. The whole thing
teeters on narrow gauge bogies that make the whole contrapture
look like it's about to tip over. The image of a galloping
goose, prominently displayed on the door of the school bus
portion completes the unique picture. To me personally, the
goose looks like it is sprinting. But who am I to say weather
a goose gallops or sprints, when they are not really known for
either. Galloping Goose is the official name for the vehicle.
Trains were still running over Lizard Head Pass in 1952. But
just a year later, even the steel rails were gone.
The images of the Otto Mears railroads remain. The Denver
Rio Grande Southern, but especially Silverton Railroad are
favorites with railroad modelers. This railroad is the
undisputed quaintest, most charming, irresponsible and
unpredictable railroad around. A scene modeled after the
Silverton provokes suspicion of an overactive imagination,
when instead it was inspired by a historical photograph.
| Lizard Head Pass (Summary)
Elevation/Highest Point: 10222ft
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Eastern Approach:
|
climb
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distance
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drop
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from Dolores (6930ft)
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3292ft
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50miles
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from Rico (8820ft)
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1402ft
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12+1/2miles
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Western Approach:
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from jct with Co62 to Dallas Divide
(7300ft)
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2922ft
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25+1/2miles
|
~600ft
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from jct with rd to Telluride
(8670ft)
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1552ft
|
13miles
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~600ft
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